Fit & Flare Princess Cut Cocktail -Drafting

The fit and flare dress is perfect for leggy girl. It gives versatile look. This dress is perfect for all seasons. We can wear with scarf, jacket and booties, and with tights and wool coat. It’s usually made with jersey knit fabric for the perfect fit. Princess seams and lightly flared skirt, sleeveless cut, back zip closure and full lining make this dress more stylish and comfort fit.

Princess Cut Body Drafting

(0-1)   = Bodice length (shoulder to waist length)

(0-2)   = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)

(2-3)     = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)

(5-6)     = Shoulder drop = 1cm                 5’ is 1” inside on the shoulder line of (6-7)

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(0-7)     = Neck width

(0-9)     = Front neck depth

X is mid point of 6-6’.                    (x-x’)  = 1cm

Shape (5’-x’-3) front armhole curve.

(0-10)  = Point length (or) ¼chest + 2cms

(10-a) = ½distance between points

(10-a) = (1-b)                   (b-b’)  =  6cms

Mark 2cms on either sides of b and join these marks to b’

(3-c)    = 1/12 of chest    (c-c’) = 7 to 9cms

Mark 0.5cm on either sides of c and join these marks to c’

Join b’-a-c’ with slight curve line

Measure 5’-x’-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(1-4)    = Waist line =¼ waist + 4cms

Cutting line:

9-7-5’-x’-3-4-1    (9-1) on fold   Then make princess cut as mentioned in draft.

Back Body Drafting

(0-1), (0-2),(2-3),(5-6), (0-5), (2-6’),(0-7)  as same as front bodice measurement.

(0-8)    = Back neck depth

X is mid point of 6-6’.                    5’ is 1” inside on the shoulder line of (6-7)

Shape (5’-x-3) back armhole curve.

Measure 5’-x-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(1-4)     = Waist line = ¼ waist + 2cms for dart.                                j is the mid point of (1-4)

(j-k)      = dart length = 4”

(l-j)        = (j-m) = 1cm

Cutting line:

8-7-5’-x-3-4-1-2-8

Skirt Drafting:

 

(0-1), (0-2) & (0-3) = 1/3waist

(1-4), (2-5) & (3-6) = Dress length – waist length

Cutting line:

1-2-3-6-5-4    (1-4) on fold

Seam Allowance:

1” on side seams

¼” on all other seams

1½” on skirt hem line.

Cutting instructions:

[caption id="attachment_5776" align="aligncenter" width="1018"] • Make a paper draft with the above construction details and then cut fabric by using paper draft.
• Now we have 3 main fabric parts and 3 lining parts for front bodice and 2 back parts in each main fabric and lining.
• Cut skirt part separately.[/caption]

Stitching Instruction:

[caption id="attachment_5777" align="aligncenter" width="1018"] • Sew along the neck line and armhole of the front bodice parts and back bodice parts by facing right side of main fabric and wrong side of lining fabric (If with out lining you can finish the neckline and armhole with bias strip). Turn right side out and press.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_5778" align="aligncenter" width="910"] • Take front bodice centre part and place the left side part by facing right sides together and sew to join the two parts and repeat again with the right side part.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_5779" align="aligncenter" width="1194"] • Darts have to stitch at the wrong side of back bodice parts.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_5780" align="aligncenter" width="1498"] • Fix the zip at the back bodice part.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_5781" align="aligncenter" width="950"] • Make waist band with bow.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_5782" align="alignleft" width="290"] • Place the waist band at ¼” just above the waist line of front bodice and pin it at side seams. Place the back bodice by facing right sides together and sew along the shoulder and side seams.[/caption]



[caption id="attachment_5785" align="alignleft" width="278"] • Finish the hem line and side seams of skirt. Now time to attach skirt portion to the bodice.. Turn the skirt’s wrong side out , then insert the bodice part to the skirt by facing right sides together and sew along the waist line to join the skirt to the bodice.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_5784" align="alignright" width="373"] Now you finished your Stylish Fit & Flare dress…. You can make this dress with other neck line and more skirt layers…[/caption]